Ulpha and Dunnerdale

An Ulpha Circuit with the Duddon Valley Local History Group.

A sunny day in lakeless lakeland tempted a good turnout for the walk through Duddon history on Saturday.  Setting out off the road leading to Ulpha Bridge we walked up the fell-side east of the river to our first destination

the old Quaker Burial Ground known as the Quakers' Sepulcher, my first sight was of the beautifully crafted wall which encloses this peaceful space.

Burials took place here between 1662-1775. We appreciated the walled enclosure with its interior inset slate seats then took care to duck down under the low entrance to leave while mountain bikers waited to let the crowd pass.

After burial ceased here an apple orchard was planted but no trace of them remain, the only trees now are a scattering of firs.  We leave heading for Kiln Bank with views of the valley

the sky full of clouds with slants of sunlight highlighting patches of the field system. The scattering of houses and lone farms

and old slate workings entertain the eye.  We continued down the gentle path and reach the valley bottom

over the stream past 'The Fairy Bridge' in actuality built in the 1960s to show how a bridge was built -

only fairies may cross.   We cross the valley floor over Hall Bridge

Nook steps and Hall Bridge

and start to climb stopping part way up

to have lunch where there were plenty of nice flat slates to sit on

at Commonwoods Slate Quarry.  Our ultimate destination was further up

Ken stops to get his notes out to elucidate us all

to what is left of the Commonwoods slate dressing plateau.

There are many small ruined buildings, I think one would need plenty of shelter from the weather up here although this is a nice seat on a sunny day.

The slate workings building with pointed peak of Caw in the background.

The light playing on the hills with the steep slate quarry in the foreground. Here is someone who has visited the mines beneath.  We however stayed under the ever changing skies

headed downwards past the mossy remains of Grimecrag House.

which dates from the 17th Century. Built in one long range across the hillside it consists of a 3 bay house with 4 bay barn. Alan commented that the name Grimecrag would not have attracted a bride to this location in those day of old.  Today with it view of the Duddon to the coast it might have been more attractively called Sea View.  The old tree trunk in the foreground held a nice surprise

in this year of abundant fungi some had made a home here. Downward we continued by

Crosby Gill and past Grimecrag Bridge

through Hazel Head Farm, the group splintered when a few were tempted in to the Hesk View Walkers Barn with its cake and tea signpost but only with time to look around and think next time we might have time to stop but we had to catch up with our party.

We admired the bank barn on the way past.  Joining the Birker Fell Road and across the fields to the gate by

the charming Ulpha Post Office (opened in 1890). Buy your postcards here and post in

the Victoria Regina post box manufactured by WT Allen.  However it was only ice creams to be licked for us on this day rather than stamps.

A dated (1709 or 1769) gate stoop to gaze at and a visit to the idylic St John's Church

and enjoy its wall decorations.  This is dedicated to one of the Dansons (1793) who gave the church its lynchgate and oak porch (replaced in 1961 with a stone porch).  We give thanks for the day and return to our cars.

Old Barn

I pass this old barn regularly, it lies a field, banking and stream  away from the main road and as the sun sets the light accentuates the red brickwork and the building take on another character with a glowing abstract pattern.  This effect could only be captured from the road which is busy with traffic and no parking - I have never plotted out my camera approach.  It is too late now.  The high winds of Ex hurricane Ophelia which recently made landfall from the Atlantic has done for it. As I drove past today the front

and side walls have collapsed and the roof is lying inside.

It looks as though the more sturdy slate at the back is still in place which may be why the majority of the Lake District barns are made from this local material and

have stood the test of time. This old cruck barn in the Lickle Valley lies beneath the wonderfully named Hovel Knott and has been here for hundreds of years and is still in use. 

Here is the interior curved cruck or crook frame supporting the roof with contrasting modern plastic containers. The old and new. 

An entry to ABC Wednesday, a journey through the alphabet, this week sojourning at O here

   

History Walk in the Lickle Valley

The Duddon Valley Local History Group walk to visit the abundant settlement sites in the secluded Lickle Valley, South West Cumbria.

Weather: Rain, drizzle and mist.
Distance: 4.5 Miles 

Start: The Hawk Car Park (SD 239 919)

We all set off with full waterproofs out of the car park and up the road to turn off  right onto the fell-side where extensive tree felling has taken place and there was a wire fence at the access point where what had been the step stile had been disposed of by being thrown on the floor (an eagle eyed member spotted part of its remains in the undergrowth). Not deterred, a wire balancing act ensued before we headed up the hill to our objective - The Hawk - an Iron Age or Romano-British settlement.

The Hawk settlement consists of the remains of five round houses in a natural hollow with rocky outcrops, high up but secluded and is indeed perched  like a hawk. The rain came down so unfortunately precluded use of my camera but happily a member of  The Megalithic Portal visited in 2014  so there is  full description with photographs. I believe there have been several archaeological digs at this site and it is certainly one that  inspires the imagination.

We fought our way down through the muddle and disorder of branches, the aftermath of tree felling, and eventually met the forestry road and started the long walk upwards with the River Lickle in the distance below us. Reaching the scenic Natty Bridge over Yewry Syke ravine we crossed to the open fell . There are interesting lone standing stones or way-marks at this point on the hillside.

We continued to Stephenson Ground, Scale and stopped at the boat shaped remains of the double walled Viking longhouse in a sheltered position

A dreich day at the Longhouse

where at last my camera was unfurled as it was only drizzling. Pottery and charcoal have been found here dated to 12th-14th Century although there is evidence the site could be Bronze Age (c2000-800BC).  I presume the place name Scale is from the Old Norse skdli, a hut or shelter.

Duddon History Group at the Burial Cairn

We gathered around the burial cairn below the longhouse where our leader Mervyn and member Stephe discussed the archaeological topography. If it hadn't been deep misty haze there would have been a glorious view down the valley at this point.

Continuing down and reaching Stephenson Ground farm there is a beautifully preserved

Potash Kiln

potash kiln where in the past green bracken (high in potassium) would have been burnt for use as potash fertiliser in other words Pot- Ash.  It could also be used in the making of soaps (lyes) and dyes.

On the Edge

In the present day it is providing a wonderful habitat for growing moss.

The etymology of the name Stephenson Ground refers to the fact that this area was granted as wasteland to the Stephenson family by Furness Abbey in 1509, a farmhouse was built soon after.  The present building is probably 18th Century.

There are extensive barns from varying periods of time around it

and some nice examples of

the stone bars of water yeats over what is a trickle of the River Lickle.  Our walk almost over we turned down the road to head back to the car park passing

Water Yeat Bridge

over Water Yeat Packhorse Bridge where this curious bell shaped object was. One of our party explained it was to prevent carriage wheels from knocking into and damaging the bridge parapet and is the only one he has seen still in place.

Thanks to Mervyn for taking us all on a fascinating history walk.  Sorry for the dubious quality of the photographs a combination of poor conditions and a technical blunder but hope these give some impression of a fascinating place full of the echoes of history.

This was a typical wet February day in the Lake District with the mist hanging in the air and dampening  the sound, rivulets tumbling down rocks and the moss luxuriantly green softly glowing like lanterns in the grey of the day.  The shine of wet tree trunks greeted us in the valley with water droplets clinging to the branches and a profusion of catkins promising the spring to come. 

For more a more informed history of the area visit the Duddon Valley Local History Group site.