Ghosts of the Past

Time for walkies at Canal Foot for the Duddon History Group, the entrance to what was once the shortest canal in the country which today is a magnet for anglers, runners and strollers. The ship on the sign gives a clue to the reason for the canal as these came in at high tide from Morecambe Bay but there were also shipbuilders here as well. The notorious shifting sands and channels of Morecambe Bay added a bit of jeopardy to the changing  locations of piers.  The  canal had a short operational life and the coming of the Furness Railway sounded its death knell.  Canal Foot is now an ideal place to see the long railway viaduct (part of which can be seen in the background of the photo above) and the trains crossing, watch the bird life and enjoy the view,

We however were in search of past industries of which little remains but limestone quarries and lime kilns. The limestone is used in the iron making process and there were quite a few plants here at one time with also an iron ore mine but this view is what was the track-bed of the industrial rail link coming into the area and a rather fine limestone wall.

When I downloaded my photos I wondered why I had taken a picture of a field. Sheep in fields I am rather fond of but they are way in the distance then it was pointed out that banking loop to the right is also the old rail track.  In the distance can be see Hoad Hill

and the monument.  One can never get lost in Ulverston with this landmark and for generations of people a marker from a long journey that "we are nearly home".  After looking down the watery depths of the old iron ore mine we looped back to the canal

Low autumn light can make taking photographs tricky but it also lights up the colours of the few remaining leaves reluctant to let go.

After lunch at Canal Foot we journeyed half a mile down the road to the quiet hamlet of Sandhall with a handily placed postbox. In the 19th Century it was a hive of industry which included quarry, brick, and wire works and just round the corner

Carter Pool where the last ship to be built in Ulverston was constructed. From the size of it today it seems rather incredible.  Nothing on the surface remains of these industries and today this is a watery flat land and we watched hundreds of geese flying in formation in the sky, dividing and and then combining making shapes as they wheeled across the sky. Did I say nothing remains of the old industry here? Well there are two slag banks where now bee orchids grow and

a rather beautiful chimney that was once part of the wire works which operated from around 1882 to about 1919 and was left as a navigation aid for vessels berthing at Ainslie Pier, Hammerside.

The white brick banding is actually more yellow but digital doesn't pick it out too well. It looks to be in rather good condition.

I got rather excited about this chimney so clicked happily away as we passed it. Our guide for the day was Rod McKeever whose book The Industrial Archaeology of South Ulverston no doubt will guide us for another visit to the area.

Further and more informed information of Ulverston Canal and South Ulverston can be found on the Cumbrian Industrial History site




 

Ulpha and Dunnerdale

An Ulpha Circuit with the Duddon Valley Local History Group.

A sunny day in lakeless lakeland tempted a good turnout for the walk through Duddon history on Saturday.  Setting out off the road leading to Ulpha Bridge we walked up the fell-side east of the river to our first destination

the old Quaker Burial Ground known as the Quakers' Sepulcher, my first sight was of the beautifully crafted wall which encloses this peaceful space.

Burials took place here between 1662-1775. We appreciated the walled enclosure with its interior inset slate seats then took care to duck down under the low entrance to leave while mountain bikers waited to let the crowd pass.

After burial ceased here an apple orchard was planted but no trace of them remain, the only trees now are a scattering of firs.  We leave heading for Kiln Bank with views of the valley

the sky full of clouds with slants of sunlight highlighting patches of the field system. The scattering of houses and lone farms

and old slate workings entertain the eye.  We continued down the gentle path and reach the valley bottom

over the stream past 'The Fairy Bridge' in actuality built in the 1960s to show how a bridge was built -

only fairies may cross.   We cross the valley floor over Hall Bridge

Nook steps and Hall Bridge

and start to climb stopping part way up

to have lunch where there were plenty of nice flat slates to sit on

at Commonwoods Slate Quarry.  Our ultimate destination was further up

Ken stops to get his notes out to elucidate us all

to what is left of the Commonwoods slate dressing plateau.

There are many small ruined buildings, I think one would need plenty of shelter from the weather up here although this is a nice seat on a sunny day.

The slate workings building with pointed peak of Caw in the background.

The light playing on the hills with the steep slate quarry in the foreground. Here is someone who has visited the mines beneath.  We however stayed under the ever changing skies

headed downwards past the mossy remains of Grimecrag House.

which dates from the 17th Century. Built in one long range across the hillside it consists of a 3 bay house with 4 bay barn. Alan commented that the name Grimecrag would not have attracted a bride to this location in those day of old.  Today with it view of the Duddon to the coast it might have been more attractively called Sea View.  The old tree trunk in the foreground held a nice surprise

in this year of abundant fungi some had made a home here. Downward we continued by

Crosby Gill and past Grimecrag Bridge

through Hazel Head Farm, the group splintered when a few were tempted in to the Hesk View Walkers Barn with its cake and tea signpost but only with time to look around and think next time we might have time to stop but we had to catch up with our party.

We admired the bank barn on the way past.  Joining the Birker Fell Road and across the fields to the gate by

the charming Ulpha Post Office (opened in 1890). Buy your postcards here and post in

the Victoria Regina post box manufactured by WT Allen.  However it was only ice creams to be licked for us on this day rather than stamps.

A dated (1709 or 1769) gate stoop to gaze at and a visit to the idylic St John's Church

and enjoy its wall decorations.  This is dedicated to one of the Dansons (1793) who gave the church its lynchgate and oak porch (replaced in 1961 with a stone porch).  We give thanks for the day and return to our cars.

History Walk in the Lickle Valley

The Duddon Valley Local History Group walk to visit the abundant settlement sites in the secluded Lickle Valley, South West Cumbria.

Weather: Rain, drizzle and mist.
Distance: 4.5 Miles 

Start: The Hawk Car Park (SD 239 919)

We all set off with full waterproofs out of the car park and up the road to turn off  right onto the fell-side where extensive tree felling has taken place and there was a wire fence at the access point where what had been the step stile had been disposed of by being thrown on the floor (an eagle eyed member spotted part of its remains in the undergrowth). Not deterred, a wire balancing act ensued before we headed up the hill to our objective - The Hawk - an Iron Age or Romano-British settlement.

The Hawk settlement consists of the remains of five round houses in a natural hollow with rocky outcrops, high up but secluded and is indeed perched  like a hawk. The rain came down so unfortunately precluded use of my camera but happily a member of  The Megalithic Portal visited in 2014  so there is  full description with photographs. I believe there have been several archaeological digs at this site and it is certainly one that  inspires the imagination.

We fought our way down through the muddle and disorder of branches, the aftermath of tree felling, and eventually met the forestry road and started the long walk upwards with the River Lickle in the distance below us. Reaching the scenic Natty Bridge over Yewry Syke ravine we crossed to the open fell . There are interesting lone standing stones or way-marks at this point on the hillside.

We continued to Stephenson Ground, Scale and stopped at the boat shaped remains of the double walled Viking longhouse in a sheltered position

A dreich day at the Longhouse

where at last my camera was unfurled as it was only drizzling. Pottery and charcoal have been found here dated to 12th-14th Century although there is evidence the site could be Bronze Age (c2000-800BC).  I presume the place name Scale is from the Old Norse skdli, a hut or shelter.

Duddon History Group at the Burial Cairn

We gathered around the burial cairn below the longhouse where our leader Mervyn and member Stephe discussed the archaeological topography. If it hadn't been deep misty haze there would have been a glorious view down the valley at this point.

Continuing down and reaching Stephenson Ground farm there is a beautifully preserved

Potash Kiln

potash kiln where in the past green bracken (high in potassium) would have been burnt for use as potash fertiliser in other words Pot- Ash.  It could also be used in the making of soaps (lyes) and dyes.

On the Edge

In the present day it is providing a wonderful habitat for growing moss.

The etymology of the name Stephenson Ground refers to the fact that this area was granted as wasteland to the Stephenson family by Furness Abbey in 1509, a farmhouse was built soon after.  The present building is probably 18th Century.

There are extensive barns from varying periods of time around it

and some nice examples of

the stone bars of water yeats over what is a trickle of the River Lickle.  Our walk almost over we turned down the road to head back to the car park passing

Water Yeat Bridge

over Water Yeat Packhorse Bridge where this curious bell shaped object was. One of our party explained it was to prevent carriage wheels from knocking into and damaging the bridge parapet and is the only one he has seen still in place.

Thanks to Mervyn for taking us all on a fascinating history walk.  Sorry for the dubious quality of the photographs a combination of poor conditions and a technical blunder but hope these give some impression of a fascinating place full of the echoes of history.

This was a typical wet February day in the Lake District with the mist hanging in the air and dampening  the sound, rivulets tumbling down rocks and the moss luxuriantly green softly glowing like lanterns in the grey of the day.  The shine of wet tree trunks greeted us in the valley with water droplets clinging to the branches and a profusion of catkins promising the spring to come. 

For more a more informed history of the area visit the Duddon Valley Local History Group site.